in the meantime, here is the link until Clay rescues me. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tillyreed ... /my_photosKabul - Saturday morning, March 19th
Broken toilets, military helmets (photo 1), bombed out buildings and burnt out vehicles line the way of life. Sun shining brightly gives hope that life will soon return to normal: Whatever normal may be to each. Cultures and traditions lost to Russians and insurgents, the smart/rich ones left; religious beliefs and practices sullied by impositions, misinterpretation paving the way for patriarchal obsessions of power over others. What is their insecurity that violence upon other sentient beings is their only means to self? A young man flies a colorful kite from the top of TV Hill (photo 2) that was the downfall of one tribe of man after another; he looks so normal. The kite drifts over the reality of the recent past, and the possibilities of the present. (photo 3) Ask the young man if his wife will wear a burka and cover herself from head to toe with only a coarse mesh to see out of, and he will say yes, undoubtedly. Ask this young man why she should do this, and he will no doubt tell you that it is to protect her. And she, without a choice or knowledge of another way, does as she is told by her husband, her brother, her father, her brother in law and any other man that is even remotely related to her. The daughters, nothing more than their value in Afghanis, or livestock – sell the child into prostitution for what other good is she? The universal blindness of man magnified a thousand percent. And “no”, we hear, “AIDS is not a problem in Afghanistan”.
Photographer in the street with a scribe, red cloth hanging on the wall (photo 4)– down the street the passport office has a line out the door and down Passport Road to the main road … people trying to get out of the country, trying to find a better life. Perhaps their sojourn abroad will open them to a civil society where all have a right to be, to be heard, to have a voice in their own lives and to participate in the decision making process. However, it is all men lined up to have their photo taken, their documents filled out, before joining the line to enter the office for their way out. Very occasionally, a woman in her burka, pulling it close to her face so that she can see, quickly walks by not daring to look anywhere but down; fancy shoes are all that is visible of the woman. (photo 5) Widows with hordes of children, covered in their burkas, beg for an Afghani for food as turbaned men, of great manliness and good looks, clothed in baggy pants and long shirts with fabulous shawls wrapped about them to ward off the morning chill, squat to urinate along the walls.
Rain washes the air clean and green sprouts are seen here and there. Spring is coming - the time of new life. The warmer weather thaws the snow and ice on the high passes through the mountains, (photo 6) giving the Taliban opportunity to re-announce themselves by bombing and killing; all in the name of Allah? Condelezza Rice’s visit prompted the most recent action – just what can I say about that? An email just in advises of “…2.5 million handed to the Minister of Women’s Affairs by the United States Agency for International Development to help raise the profile and impact of the Ministry as a national, principled leader on issues of women and social justice and increase the Ministry's influence on programs that can improve the lives of women. USAID will also assist in developing and coordinating programs for the seventeen Provincial Women's Resource Centers that facilitate outreach into the provinces to improve the lives of women and girls. USAID has provided more than $50 million to support women's issues in Afghanistan since the fall of the Taliban”. “From the American People”, as the USAID logo says (your tax dollars at work). There is tremendous pressure from Capitol Hill to get grants out to women, no matter the sustainability or actual outcome/impact of the project – just get the money out to get the Afghan/American lobbyists off the back of our fine people on the Hill so they will get off the back of USAID/Afghanistan, and we all know which way shit rolls. It’s ok, we will get the money out, and still implement a good program – balance in everything we do. Feed the dragons.
Concertina wire surrounds this building, huge concrete barriers surround that building, and 18’ walls with metal spikes surround another. (photo 7) Next to them the remnants of what was once someone’s home, where children were born and raised for generations now a pile of rubble and trash, with donkeys and orphans eating from the garbage. Afghans from around the world returning, some doing good others further raping and pillaging the country. Companies registering as non-government organizations/non profits, the UN workers and other contractors giving aid workers a bad rap, making us the focus of the government in analyzing the NGO law – because of “the luxurious lifestyles, $50,000+ vehicles, wild parties and orgies” that go on. The Thursday nights of raucous expatriate events at the Elbow Room and other such expat hangouts giving cause/rise to the statements of concern; but is the NGO Law the way to address these issues? (The maid, wrapped in her burka, is in my room now; dusting the furniture is an interesting exercise in futility – both because she cannot see and because the dust is a constant and minutes after any attempt to rid the area of its film it is back.) Expatriate buildings with high walls, cement barriers and armed guards – paying 2 million and more for their expat security guard and service “From the American People” – call attention to themselves – here we are … come and get us! A low profile means of securing our safety seems the wiser choice. Big white Toyota Land Cruisers and other such SUVs ($50,000+ vehicles - saw a Cadillac SUV in the PX parking lot yesterday) go through town and along the highways with their radio antennas whipping in the air again calling out … here we are, come and get us! Balance between necessity, safety and reason.
New Year celebrations are gearing up; March 21st the day to welcome in the new year. It is utterly strange, and pleasant, for the event to not be based around the consumption of alcohol. The euphoria, however, is brought on by other extremes, other passions and obsessions. Women gather, once their men folk leave, shed their chains and talk of a better life for their children, as women do in every corner of the world. Women’s organizations work with the war and abandoned widows and half orphans and orphans cum street kids – teaching them a trade so they can eat and find nourishment other than what they manage to scrounge from the garbage piles. (photo
They work packaging and distributing condoms to fight the non-existent AIDS problem. They work with women who are in prison for no other reason than that they angered their husbands or disappointed them in some way – perhaps bearing girl children, or for some reason not being willing to continue being the focus of their violence. The children, through association also guilty and especially so if they are girls, are allowed to be with their mothers in prison during the day, but are put out to fend for themselves in the night – our pets have a luxurious life. And this as the call to prayer sounds out 5 times a day, and the men cleanse their faces, their arm pits, their private parts, their hands and feet in order to be clean enough to pray to Allah, whom they now totally misunderstand, whose words have been distorted far beyond those of the gods of all other organized religions. This is basic in its truest form. Women’s organizations also work to give women a voice, but first have to teach them that they have the right to have one! They have to first assure them that they will be there in their times of need – when they need a place to escape from the violence of their homes, or they need a kind voice and soft touch when they wind up in jail. Where do we start, how far back do we have to go, where is the foundation from which to build? Imposition of our ways is no better than the Russians or the insurgents, or the misinterpretation of the holy book. Throwing money at the problem without first involving those that live it everyday in identifying the problem and involving them in the solution creates more problems than it solves; half baked promises. Building the awareness of the staff so they can carry the message; giving them the skills they need to be the true agents of change; helping them understand that everyone is equal and that differences should be looked upon as opportunities to learn rather than objects or behaviors of scorn and/or prejudice. If they go about the country truly believing that all are equal regardless of their gender, religion, ethnicity, etc. and that every human being has the right to be heard and listened to, then they will indeed be the messengers and agents of change. (photo 9)I appeared on TV and in the media during a recent International Women’s Day event, which was funded by our program with your tax dollars – thanks! I spoke of women’s voices and their need to be on an equal par with those of males. It was a pleasant surprise to see men in the audience, and to listen to them also speaking of equality and justice for women and between the sexes. A representative from the Presidential palace, resplendent in his turban, spoke of the government’s interest and commitment to civil society which cannot be in effect without the participation of women who make up more than 50% of the population. Beautiful young girls dressed in traditional outfits from across the country recited poetry and sang songs, including “We Shall Overcome” which brought tears to my eyes, tears of humility for their strength in light of their difficult position in society. No digital photos of the event, but a wonderful video and photos that were presented to our staff.
On Chicken Street, the periodic tourist gazes at the carpets, beautiful shawls (photo 10) and lapis jewelry that are on display. Anyone interested? Special deal for you! I will increase the price 50% and donate the proceeds to the Women’s Center; beautiful things and a bargain at that. The Annual Crestone (Colorado) Music Festival will provide the venue for sale of beautiful Afghan things – August 5-7 – the proceeds again going to the Women’s Center. On the next street over, Flower Street, most anything can be found to appease the expat’s hunger for things familiar: peanut butter, Hob Nobs, chili sauces, breads, imported cheeses … much more than I ever found in Bulgaria, but then Afghans have always been traders par excellence and a demand is quickly filled. On other streets beef, mutton and poultry hang in the dust and grime, adding their blood to the violence; bread looking like snow shoes hangs in the next stall. (photo 11) Fresh cilantro makes promises of summer’s offerings of fruit and vegetables. Then there are the 3 PXs that sell lots and lots of alcohol and tobacco to the expat community, along with food stuff (including flour tortillas and salsa), a limited inventory of clothing, military necessities such as compasses, boots, camping equipment and some really cool lightweight but warm and compact military sleeping bags – one of which has my eye.
And this just in: “On 17 Mar a significant clash took place between the FC and tribesmen in Dera Bugti city. The details are uncertain and current reports conflict considerably, at the moment. One report suggests that it was an attempt to assassinate the DCO and local FC commander, and another that the FC were mounting a search operation and were attacked in order to prevent this. Also, reports suggest that FC casualties may have been as high as 5 killed and 20 wounded and tribal casualties as high as 50 killed and 150 wounded. It will probably be some time before the truth is known. What is clear, however, is that tensions remain high in the area and that the capacity for violent action is considerable. Accordingly, Dera Bugti city in particular and Dera Bugti District in general are considered to be at threat level "HIGH" and should be avoided. The surrounding districts of Jafarabad, Nasirabad, Kholu and Sibi remain at threat level "MEDIUM" and additional precautions in those areas remain in order.”
Life on the edge … where I want to be, where little successes are made huge by the overwhelming need.
Peace to all and Happy New Year!
Tilly
The elders do garnish a bit more respect (even women) so I have finally found good use for growing old. 
to do it!
