Dooby's Road, latest take (toke?)
Posted: March 21st, 2010, 7:04 pm
“Where pavement ends and the west begins”—a sign on the outskirts of Gerlach, Nevada (population 200). Actually pavement runs another fifteen miles to the edge of nothing, the far side of everything, but you get the idea. Gerlach is the only fragment of a town for about a hundred miles in any direction, unless you count the gypsum operation seven miles south, a dust-encrusted little outpost named “Empire,” in perfect satire of sun-demented hubris. Gerlach sits at the southern tip of the Black Rock Desert, rimmed by abrupt mountains—Granite Range on the west, a five thousand foot high promontory dotted by scrawny juniper, and Selenite Range on the east, darker and starker—a radiant, waterless fjord that opens to a waterless sea.
Gerlach is best known as the town closest to Burning Man—that cosmic art storm splatter on the open playa canvas—40,000 assorted mystic freaks camped on the blinding plane every Labor Day weekend, altering parched reality. Never been to Burning Man? It costs about $400 and a Scooby Doo van to get in; out beyond the solar groove. In Gerlach you won’t find much—a post office, a school, a few bars and slot machines. Bruno’s Country Club is the social hub, and its owner, Bruno Selmi, owns most of the town. Bruno is a man of short stature, slightly hunched, into his eighties, with a full head of white hair, neatly buzzed. He came from the old country (Tuscany) in 1946, found a job at the gypsum plant, and took a liking to northwestern Nevada’s majestic moonscape desolation. So he began his business empire by leasing a bar in Gerlach. Sixty years later he owns a gas station by the tracks, a bar, a café and two ranches, plus other smaller concerns. He is shrewd and tough as nails, sometimes curses a lot, and tends bar every night. The annual Burning Man meltdown is a boon for business, though in general Bruno regards the event as “the biggest bunch of dopeheads he’s ever seen.”
A couple miles north of Gerlach you’ll find a street sign on the left, “Guru Rd,” and a rocky path into the sage and talus slopes. Take the road. Turns out Gerlach was once home to a guru, the late Dooby Williams, who had a vision, or several. So he finagled some land from the Bureau of Land Management and scraped out a crude road alongside the paved one, whereupon he built his vision. Or several. On Guru Road you grind through the hardscrabble high desert and ponder peculiar exhibits sculpted with stacked rock. The trail is lined with hundreds of engraved and painted flat stones, the medium of choice, each inscribed with some sort of tribute, or idiosyncratic bit of wisdom, or Zen goof.
No one takes Dooby’s visions too seriously, yet you find yourself stuck on one or two. At high noon the “Sagebrush Net Work” is good for a little shade—an octagonal hovel stood up on weathered, gray poles, overlaid with saggy thatching and wrapped by an odd sort of net (work). On each side except the door, the net is cut open in a rectangle and framed by the plastic face of an old TV set—Sylvania, Zenith and such. A TV antenna juts from the roof, one of those 1960s aluminum trees, and a flat rock inside reads: “To change channel, turn head.” Dial the side canyons. Or waterless sea. Poetry on each channel, and a decrepit wicker chair in the middle. You savor the rake of raw breeze, see things in the horizon you never noticed, exaggerated by old television frames. You bought some time.
Gerlach is best known as the town closest to Burning Man—that cosmic art storm splatter on the open playa canvas—40,000 assorted mystic freaks camped on the blinding plane every Labor Day weekend, altering parched reality. Never been to Burning Man? It costs about $400 and a Scooby Doo van to get in; out beyond the solar groove. In Gerlach you won’t find much—a post office, a school, a few bars and slot machines. Bruno’s Country Club is the social hub, and its owner, Bruno Selmi, owns most of the town. Bruno is a man of short stature, slightly hunched, into his eighties, with a full head of white hair, neatly buzzed. He came from the old country (Tuscany) in 1946, found a job at the gypsum plant, and took a liking to northwestern Nevada’s majestic moonscape desolation. So he began his business empire by leasing a bar in Gerlach. Sixty years later he owns a gas station by the tracks, a bar, a café and two ranches, plus other smaller concerns. He is shrewd and tough as nails, sometimes curses a lot, and tends bar every night. The annual Burning Man meltdown is a boon for business, though in general Bruno regards the event as “the biggest bunch of dopeheads he’s ever seen.”
A couple miles north of Gerlach you’ll find a street sign on the left, “Guru Rd,” and a rocky path into the sage and talus slopes. Take the road. Turns out Gerlach was once home to a guru, the late Dooby Williams, who had a vision, or several. So he finagled some land from the Bureau of Land Management and scraped out a crude road alongside the paved one, whereupon he built his vision. Or several. On Guru Road you grind through the hardscrabble high desert and ponder peculiar exhibits sculpted with stacked rock. The trail is lined with hundreds of engraved and painted flat stones, the medium of choice, each inscribed with some sort of tribute, or idiosyncratic bit of wisdom, or Zen goof.
No one takes Dooby’s visions too seriously, yet you find yourself stuck on one or two. At high noon the “Sagebrush Net Work” is good for a little shade—an octagonal hovel stood up on weathered, gray poles, overlaid with saggy thatching and wrapped by an odd sort of net (work). On each side except the door, the net is cut open in a rectangle and framed by the plastic face of an old TV set—Sylvania, Zenith and such. A TV antenna juts from the roof, one of those 1960s aluminum trees, and a flat rock inside reads: “To change channel, turn head.” Dial the side canyons. Or waterless sea. Poetry on each channel, and a decrepit wicker chair in the middle. You savor the rake of raw breeze, see things in the horizon you never noticed, exaggerated by old television frames. You bought some time.